By Providence Cicero – The Seattle Times
July 31, 2015
KUKU IS AN Iranian omelet similar to an Italian frittata. Eggs are its foundation, but a number of other ingredients may be added to the mix.
Her favorite was sabzi kuku. Packed with fresh and dried herbs, and fragrant with spices, sabzi kuku (said with the accent on the second syllable) is one of the dishes traditionally eaten at Norooz, the Persian New Year, to celebrate the first day of spring. The eggs symbolize fertility; the green herbs signify rebirth and renewal. But kuku is also an everyday food in Iranian households.
“My mother, the Persian half of me, remembers that kuku was in her house all the time,” says Racha Haroun. “It is easy to have on hand, because it keeps in the refrigerator for a few days. You can serve it to unexpected guests. You can reheat it, eat it cold or at room temperature. My mother would make herself kuku sandwiches as a girl.”
Haroun’s own children love kuku, but these days they are mostly eating it at Mamnoon, Racha and Wassef Haroun’s Capitol Hill restaurant. Chef Garrett Melkonian’s recipe hews closely to tradition. It’s easy to make, though painstaking to prepare the quantities of parsley, cilantro, dill and romaine that give kuku its vivid green hue.
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